Cleansing with Oil

Also known as the “Oil Cleansing Method”

For those who haven’t heard of oil cleansing, it may seem a bit counterintuitive. “Washing the face with oil? Won’t that just make me break out or clog my pores?” Turns out, quite the opposite. In fact, cleansing the face with oils can provide a deeper clean without the abrasiveness of foaming cleansers or soaps, especially if using conventional cleansers that have harsh synthetic surfactants. Cleansers with these surfactants can strip the skin of all oils, good and bad, thereby drying out the skin and potentially making certain imbalances like acne or dryness even worse.

I know, for many years we’ve been told that to combat oily skin and acne that we should almost completely avoid oils. For a food analogy, this is like saying that in order to be healthy, we shouldn’t eat any fats. The truth is a bit more complex than these blanket statements, we now know there are good fats that we absolutely should be eating on a daily basis (like those with the fatty acids in avocados, nuts, seeds, and fish, some of which our bodies can’t produce on their own). The same goes for the good oils that thoroughly benefit the skin and whose components are vital to skin health and vitality.

Oil cleansing is based on the chemistry adage that “like dissolves like.” While not exactly a new revelation, oil cleansing has been discussed in the US for some years now (and has been a part of skincare routines in Asia for decades), oils applied to the face for cleansing purify while removing make-up and the daily accumulation of sebum, sweat, debris, dirt, and pollution particles in a gentle and effective manner, while also replacing the “dirty” oil with beneficial analogous lipids from botanical sources, thereby simultaneously replenishing your skin. Oil cleansing provides a deep cleanse that also boosts circulation and improves penetration of the products that follow.

Before we go into the steps of how to properly use an oil cleanser, I would like to point out one distinction: some oil cleansers will tout their rinse-off capabilities, while others will recommend a warm, damp washcloth for removal. The difference between the two will be the inclusion of a surfactant/emulsifier in the formula.

There are naturally derived surfactants/emulsifiers that work well and are known to be safe alternatives to the more synthetic ones. These emulsifiers have the ability to create self-emulsifying waterless products such as cleansing oils that turn into a milk-like consistency by applying water and easily rinse-off without leaving any unpleasant greasiness or stickiness, just like a very mild soap. Cleansers like these wash off easily and therefore are great for the times in which you don’t fancy a ritual and just want to get the cleansing step done in a quick and seamless way.

However, if you appreciate a pristinely-natural/purely botanical oil cleanser (I personally have a weak spot for those), with the simplicity and complexity of a well formulated blend of plant oils, herbs and extracts (rich in cleansing and soothing compounds, polar lipids and phospholipids) you’ll enjoy a cleanse provided by the intelligence of nature, just remember you will most likely need that warm washcloth to remove it, which only takes a couple of seconds. It is really a personal choice and regardless, both will leave your skin looking and feeling clean, soft, and supple. I use both!

Step 1: Remove Makeup (if applicable)

Apply your oil cleanser in the specific areas where you have applied makeup. Oil cleansers are great for makeup, especially those that are water-resistant or waterproof. The oil will typically soften and dissolve the make-up very quickly. If you have a washcloth, damp it with lukewarm water and very gently remove it with soft strokes.

Step 2: Apply the oil cleanser

Be generous with the amount of product you use, you want a decent amount to glide and massage comfortably but not so much that it is dripping into the sink. The right amount should feel like a decadent oily lather, almost like a mask. Gently massage the oil in circular outward motions to stimulate circulation and lymphatic flow. Don’t forget about your neck. onto the skin, starting with your forehead and slowly working your way down. Just remember to try to “lift” the skin when massaging, rather than pulling it down. I typically do this for 5 minutes because I truly love this part, but 1-3 mins typically does the trick.

Step 3: Remove the oil cleanser

If the oil cleanser has a surfactant, i.e. can rinse-off, simply use water to wash it off. If the oil cleanser is purely composed of plant oils and does not contain a surfactant, use your warm, damp washcloth to gently remove the oil from your face in the same manner that you applied it: slow, circular movements lifting the skin up, not pulling it down. I like having a decent amount of water in the cloth, I’ve found it tends to give a more pleasurable experience. 🙂

Step 4: (Optional): Use another cleanser to remove any excess oil

Some oils or oil cleansers might be a bit difficult to remove 100% (it really depends on the formulation), in which case use a small amount of a milk or foam cleanser (the only one I can recommend for this is the Mother Dirt Biome Friendly cleanser) to remove any stubborn excess oil. Ideally this step won’t be necessary though, because you want to benefit from only using the oil cleanser, and a teeny bit of leftover oil is not necessarily a bad thing.

Step 5: Pat skin dry

If I haven’t made it clear yet, you don’t want to pull the skin down when cleaning or drying your face. Use a clean towel to gently pat your skin dry before continuing with the rest of your regular routine right after! We, of course, recommend our Extrait de Maison Rejuvenating Oil Serum, which will now be able to penetrate even better and deliver its rich antioxidant effect, rejuvenating and balancing the skin.

xo,

Carolina