Rituals for the Colder Months

Skincare & the Seasons

How the seasons affect the skin is a theme we’ve had in mind often lately as we transition to the colder months of the year. We’re busy preparing a fresh batch of the winter blend of our Extrait de Maison Serum while watching the weather gradually change from long days full of warmth to shorter days of both cooler temperatures and light.

Winter can be hard on the skin (this isn’t breaking news,) particularly if not disciplined with our skincare routine. Ideally, we should be tweaking it slightly at the turn of every season as we reflect on what the oncoming season is bringing. During winter we spend more time indoors, having a natural tendency to want to bunker down and hibernate. We are exposed to wide variations in temperature, from the indoor heat to the outdoor cold. The overall dryness of the air is prevalent, and it can be particularly harsh during those days when pollution is higher. At least, this is the case here in New York City. Of course, winters are not the same everywhere, but in general, for most people, it’s safe to say that winter generally brings more dryness and a more inactive lifestyle.

These elements make the skin more susceptible to irritation and to the natural loss of its moisture balance. That being said, each person’s skin reacts uniquely to the weather based on the skin’s particularities and the condition of the skin at that certain moment in time. Everything is constantly changing, evolving.

There’s no single foolproof method to battling winter’s challenges, but you can use these tips below as a reference if you feel your skin reacting to the colder weather.

AUDIT YOUR CABINET

At the change of each season, we like to do a quick audit of our beauty and bathroom cabinets, checking to see if there are any products which have expired and to see if there are any where it could be beneficial to switch for a gentler or more protective version. We are not promoting the idea of tossing products away just for the sake of it, there’s enough pollution in this world as it is. But maybe this is a good exercise to take note of how many beauty products we’ve recently purchased, whether we’ve used them, and how they’ve worked for us (taking note of the packaging at this time is a good idea as well). We prefer to buy what we need and use it up until the last drop so that we are always using products that are fresh, vibrant and potent (and you end up saving a little $ in the process too 😉).

HYDRATE AND MOISTURIZE

No surprise here, no one is safe from dryness and dehydration during winter. Hydrate and moisturize frequently, particularly when you feel that your skin needs it. Pick a product that provides humectants and soothing agents, natural moisturizing factors, minerals, vitamins, antioxidants and essential lipids. A combination of these elements will keep the skin’s barrier strong and transepidermal water loss at bay. You can also layer a hydrating toner, essence or water-based serum and follow it with a powerful oil serum, like our Extrait de Maison which is designed to strengthen the skin lipid barrier while providing a bounty of antioxidants and rejuvenating compounds.

Provide ingredients that equip the skin to optimally self regulate like oils rich in linoleic acid, which improves the skin’s barrier function and helps prevent dry skin. Certain studies show that this essential fatty acid, which integrates itself into the ceramides on the top layer of the skin (stratum corneum), decreases during the winter months. This, coincidentally also naturally happens with age, which is why mature skin tends to get drier more easily and often.

Applying skincare rich in linoleic acid also improves acne. Our Extrait de Maison serum is loaded with this fatty acid, as well as all the other fatty acids that are crucial to the skin’s optimal functioning and self regulation (rejuvenated and protected skin, which is especially important during winter). The skin is also a reflection of our organism so make sure to drink plenty of water daily and eat seasonal foods that are naturally rich in water, healthy fats, and a variety of vegetables and fruits (but definitely treat yourself with some food you love like a piece of chocolate as well ☺️).

DON’T PUT AWAY YOUR SUNSCREEN

Just because the sun is hiding more often behind the clouds doesn’t mean your skin is protected from its powerful UV rays. There are two main types of UV rays (A and B) and only one of the two, UVB, is partially absorbed by clouds and its effects weakened by them. The other, UVA, is stronger and penetrates through clouds, windows, and the skin. It actually penetrates the skin deeper than UVB (it has a longer wavelength) which makes it the primary culprit behind wrinkles and general skin-aging (i.e. “UV-Aging”). All this is true year round, but just because there are less UVB rays in winter, doesn’t mean it’s not important to remember that levels of UVA are still significant enough to affect our skin. And if it happens to snow, the reflective nature of the snow can actually double our exposure to UVA rays, so keep that in mind during your next ski trip. We recommend applying a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or above every morning before leaving the house and reapplying every 3-5 hours.

CLEANSE KINDLY

The lack of moisture and humidity in winter weakens our acid mantle and skin microbiome, making us more susceptible to clogged pores and breakouts because more dry skin is built up on the surface. The acid mantle is that “film” that you feel on your face, and when you wash your face with gel, foam, or soapy cleansers you’ll notice that that film is no longer there, giving you the sensation of like a rubbery-clean feeling. When there is moisture in the air this film rebuilds itself back quite quickly, however in winter when that moisture is not there, your skin is more vulnerable.

Therefore using a cleanser that supports that slight acidity that the acid mantle and skin need for optimal function is ideal. Oil cleansers are perfect for this as they are non-disruptive and lift away dirt and grime without stripping the skin. They are more nourishing and balancing (even for oily skin) and are fantastic for removing make-up as the oil particles attach themselves to the make-up particularly well. Stay tuned, you can expect something coming from us in this space in the near future 🤗.

EXFOLIATE GENTLY

Many people avoid exfoliation during the winter months. We believe that it should depend on each person’s skin, but in general it’s better not to exfoliate excessively. In our experience, very gently renewing the skin by the chemical or physical exfoliation of the dead skin cells on the epidermis can aid in keeping dry and dehydrated skin at bay while smoothing the texture of the skin, making it luminous and supple. It will certainly assist in the absorption and effectiveness of the rest of the products in the routine. Pairing gentle, occasional exfoliation with hydrating masks is a good idea.

INVEST IN A HUMIDIFIER

Using a humidifier at home in the winter can be very helpful to help keep the skin healthy and moist. As we mentioned earlier, indoor heating wreaks havoc on the balance of moisture in the skin further drying it out in addition to the already drier air. Humidifiers waft a cool steam of vapor into the air to balance out the inherent dryness of the season.

DON’T FORGET ABOUT YOUR LIPS

The lips are right there on the front line, exposed, devoid from oil secretion, constantly in use, affected every time we talk, eat, drink, brush our teeth, etc. Being diligent in keeping the lips moisturized and protected can be as simple as keeping a balm at hand in your bag, desk, and bathroom cabinet to apply re-apply whenever the lips start to feel dry and tight. A dedicated eye treatment (balm or serum) is also imperative as the skin around the eyes is quite fragile. The eyes are usually as exposed as the lips, so making sure that you keep the skin healthy and protected in that area is crucial to avoid premature aging.

IN AND OUT, IDEALLY

Skip the long, hot baths and showers and use a shower filter, if possible, for two main reasons. 1. In keeping with the same concept as above, longer exposure to hot water will dry out the skin when the air is also dry. 2. The elements that are in tap water have a stronger effect than during the warmer months. For the same reason you might be filtering tap water for drinking, you want to be filtering for bathing as well. The skin doesn’t absorb necessarily everything you put in contact with it, but we humans shower on a regular basis so it seems like a good idea to guard our skin from whatever might be in it (beyond just the chlorine). Of course this depends on where you live and what’s in your tap water (which you can check on the EWG website here). Scary topic for another day. 

But coming back to winter and the skin, make sure to moisturize right after your shower and if you do take a relaxing, well-deserved bath, perhaps add a natural bath oil. Any plant oil can work, but those that are rich in palmitic acid (a very protective saturated fatty acid that is naturally present in the skin’s lipids) are a great choice - oat or elderberry oils, for example, are two of my favorites that I recommend.